In short: CE, RoHS and FCC are three separate rules, not one certificate. CE and RoHS are EU. FCC is US, and only applies to anything with radio inside. The mark to check first is the model number — if it doesn't match what you're buying, the certificate doesn't cover your order.
A factory sends you a certificate. It has a stamp, a number, a logo — and none of that protects you.
Every certificate looks convincing: official paper, official seal, official wording. The difference is what's actually behind it. And that's the part most buyers never check.
CE: not a certificate — a declaration
CE is required to sell electronics into the EU. But the EU doesn't issue CE. The manufacturer signs a declaration of conformity — a document saying the product meets the rules.
What a factory usually shows you is a lab test report plus a "certificate of compliance." That's normal. Just know what it is: someone tested a sample, and someone signed a page.
Here's the part that matters — if you're the importer into the EU, you're the one who has to produce that document. The factory's paper doesn't transfer to you.
RoHS: a real test, on one real sample
RoHS restricts 10 substances — lead, mercury, cadmium, and others. It's a genuine lab test. The usual labs: SGS, TÜV, Intertek, Bureau Veritas.
Two things to check:
- The date. A 2019 report describes a 2019 product. If the factory changed a component supplier since, the paper still exists — and it's out of date.
- The sample. It was tested on one unit. Not on your production run.
FCC: the one you can check yourself
FCC is the US. And it splits into two completely different paths:
- Part 15B — plain chargers, no wireless. Self-declared. No FCC ID.
- Part 15C — anything with Bluetooth or Wi-Fi. Requires certification and an FCC ID.
If your product has Bluetooth or Wi-Fi, it needs an FCC ID. No exceptions.
And here's what most buyers don't know: every FCC ID is publicly searchable. Type it into the FCC database and you'll see who applied, for what product, and when.
30 seconds. That's the fastest lie detector you have.
Five checks before you trust any certificate
- Does the model number match? A certificate for a different model is not a certificate for your product. This is the most common problem.
- Is the FCC ID real? Look it up. If it doesn't appear, stop there.
- Call the lab. Give them the report number. They will tell you.
- Check the applicant name. If a trading company applied, and you're buying from a factory, those may not be the same entity.
- Look at the date. Old reports aren't fraud — they're just old.
What to ask for, in writing
- CE declaration of conformity, with the directives listed
- RoHS test report, with number and date
- FCC ID (if wireless), plus the grant document
- UN38.3 — required for air shipping lithium batteries
- MSDS for the battery
The honest part
A certificate isn't proof the product is good. It's proof that someone tested something, and wrote it down.
Your job is to check that what was tested is what you're buying — and that whoever signed it is someone you can hold responsible.
That's the part nobody hands you a certificate for.
Want a hand checking this before you commit? Message me on WhatsApp — the button is on every page.
— Damon, Founder
